When I did that the rear driver's side wheel locked up.That's odd, did it lock up and stay locked up? There isn't much back there to keep a brake locked up. Based on what little information I have I have to take a wild ass guess that the brake is grabbing because the wheel cylinder is leaking and getting some fluid on the lining. Unless that model has rear disk brakes, in that case it's likely something else. How much will it cost? I have no idea, I do all my own repairs because I'm a retired master mechanic that still has all his tools and equipment. All I can tell you is that about two weeks ago I did a brake job on the front of my truck and it cost me less than a hundred bucks for the parts.
Ah, I see the problem...K...I...A! Killed in action.
FRONT-wheel drive, I'm sure---right?'BB's-got a point---I'm bettin' rear-disks, as well?(Depends on the year. But I'm bettin' yours ain't THAT-old.)Couple of guesses, IF it locked-up, and STAYED locked:1. Wheel-bearing locked. 2. Parking-brake linkage on that particular-wheel jammed-up with "winter-shit".(You DID release the parking-brake, didn't you---BLONDIE???) 3. The CALIPER for that wheel has stuck, OR broken, from debris in the brake-fluid, corrosion/rust on the brake-piston INSIDE the caliper, or maybe even a collapsed brake-line hose?Any or all can be fixed. Price? Varies so much by the shop, and the particular problem, AND the availability of parts---I won't even venture a guess, for the expense/downtime, other than to say I would THINK it SHOULD-be relatively-affordable.Just for new pads, and/or a system-clean? $60-$150, labor included.Wheel-bearing/hub assembly---which nowadays almost ALWAYS comes as a complete-unit---as low as $150, as high as $450, labor included, for some anti-skid systems. It just varies so much from region-to-region, not to mention from one model-year to the next.Your "idiot-light" on the dash ain't showin' a fault, is it? If not, I'm betting rear-wheel bearing.Man, if I'm right on this one, you'll REALLY need to "kiss-up" to me from now on...LOL!☺
Generally, if a wheel bearing is going bad you get some warning because it gets noisy as you drive and generally takes a while to fail. I don't think it's a wheel bearing but I'm reminded of a man that drove by the shop for a week and I could hear a bad wheel bearing.By the time the idiot finely pulled into the shop the spindle and brake shoes was also shot. Claimed he didn't hear it, hell, dead people could hear it. Anyway, keep us posted on what it is and how much it costs.
It locked up but then it unlocked after we put it in reverse, then forward again. It's still in the garage, they were looking at it late Friday and aren't open today. I was HOPING it was just a caliper caught up in there because that's what happened to our other Kia, but at this point in time, they seem to think it's rear brakes that need replacing. I find that odd because it was just the one wheel, driver's side rear, same as the one that gave my husband trouble on his car. And no, the check engine light is not on. It's a 2002 Rio and yes, front wheel drive.I NEVER use the emergency brake. This is what's bugging me. When my husband used the emergency brake in his car, that's when he had problems with the caliper and his rear wheel. But I NEVER use the emergency brake and a month or so ago, I have hearing some sound in the front of the car, and they said it was something to do with the emergency brake but I can't remember what they did when I had it in then. I'll have to see if my husband remembers when he gets home.Am I wrong, but I thought my husband said rear brakes didn't have brake pads? I thought front and back both had them?
BTW... When shopping for parts it pays to call every parts house in town. One wanted over forty bucks each for rebuilt calipers, I got them at Auto Zone for 24 bucks each. What surprised me was the cost of new grease seals, over 8 bucks each, when I owned my parts house most plain jane seals sold for about 4 bucks each.
Well, A. getting the parts isn't up to me or of course, I'd look for the cheapest and B. Most of Kia parts can ONLY be bought from a Kia dealer, which pisses me off royally. It's why the prices are so damn high.And Bruno, don't say "IF" the parts are available. I worry about that every damn time this car needs serviced!
There has only been a KIA dealer in this town for about a year so I don't know much about them.Still, if I called the parts houses I bet that I could come up with a lot of part numbers and prices for such parts.
Good luck, but I bet not. This is our second Kia and every part has to come from a Kia dealer. We've heard it over and over, and I found that out myself when I was calling around for muffler costs with the last Kia.
The car is trying to tell you that it needs replacing. My wife (senior management) dumps everything that gives her a problem - so I'm lucky to still be around.
LOL!Yeah, if I could afferd it, I'd have a new car, but as it stands....repairs.
No, it really shouldn't be a bearing. Not that much weight back-there, on a car.(I mean, it's not like you're haulin' ME around each day with ya'!)Broke loose when ya' backed-up, eh?"Frozen"-caliper piston. Next guess would be a collapsed brake line/hose.(Although your BRAKE-WARNING "idiot-light" should tell you if that's the case. ENGINE-light ain't got nothin' to do with this problem.)I've learned the hard-way on parking-brake non-usage, too. And, it's true that if you "don't use it, you lose it."(I've yet to find a disk-brake system with a GOOD-parking brake system.)We're just full of good-news, aren't we?☺(Ironic how my "verification-word" was "antique"...)
"Brake warning light" who has one of those?! The only "brake warning" I have is that my brake is on...yeah, that's probably what you meant, huh? Sigh.
I don't consider that car old, I don't buy them until they are that old. My Dodge Dakota is a 1996 with 155 K on it and it's still going strong. Of course I've never owned a KIA so I don't know how good they are, I know that the first ones were crap but then that they improved them.
Yes, my 2002 Rio is MUCH better than the 1997 Sephia we both. We bought both brand new and the Sephia was so bad that it crapped out on us at only 67k miles. VERY disappointing. Also it was hard to get ANY parts for the '97 and the brakes were SO BAD that Kia paid to have new ones put in every three thousand miles for the first 12k that we owned the car. It just pisses me that they have the market cornered on their parts and why I tell people not to buy their cars. I need a small piece of exhaust pipe...maybe only four or five inches with a small flex pipe piece in it and they wanted $200 for that pipe. Luckily they were able to weld the pipe for me instead.
In re: to the brake warning light---YES, and/or NO.YES, it does let you know your parking-brake is still on. But, NO---that's not all it does. It also indicates a sudden-change in the brake-system, such as when you "blow-out" a slave(wheel)cylinder, or an O-ring in your caliper, or one-side of your master-cylinder.(In short, ANY condition that spells NO BRAKES, after-the-fact!)There. Clear as mud, ain't it?
Here's a simpler-way to put it: If it's ON when you're parked, with the parking-brake applied---COOL!If it comes ON when you're driving, and applying the foot-brake---you're SCREWED!!!Now. THAT should settle the mud a bit...!
I can honestly say at this point in my life, I've never seen the brake light on for anything other than I was driving with the emergency brake on. NOT that that has EVER happened...............much. (But it will give you some idea why I NEVER use it anymore!! And thankfully I hadn't driven that far. IF I had done it:)
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